Frequently Asked Questions
Here is our frequently asked questions sections. We get our original starter flocks from any number of sources around the globe. Most of our sources are small breeders who specialize in raising a particular breed. We do not disclose the specific flock from which our breeder flocks originate.
Chick Arrival and Care
Yes! We have a 72-hour guarantee, so if any chicks don't survive the shipping journey or if any die within 72 hours after you pick them up from the Post Office all you need to do is send us a photo of the deceased chick and we will take it from there! If the loss of the chick puts you under what you ordered then you will be eligible for a credit or refund. You can send us the photo to us via email or text - whicever way is easier for you!
Brooder: This can be many different things - it just needs to be large enough to hold the number of chicks you ordered. So this can be a plastic tub you purchase from the store, it can be a mesh playpen, a galvanized water trough, or a manufactured metal or plastic brooder that you purchase or something you make out of lumber. There are many different ways to make a brooder! Then, chose a bedding for the chicks if they aren't in a brooder with a wire bottom - a common thing to use are wood shavings which can be found at any feed store. Whatever you use for your brooder, make sure you keep clean and dry. A dirty, wet, warm environment is prime living conditions for coccidia. Be sure that the brooder is well ventilated and free from draft.
Temperature: Chicks need warmth! You should setup your brooder to have a warm zone and a cool zone. The chicks will go to the warm area or cool area depending on what they need. The warm area should be 95-99°F for the first day or two after arrival, 95°F for the first week and then lowered 5°F each week following until heat is no longer required. You can use a heater plate (recommended) or a heat lamp. If you are using a lamp, the bulb should be ceramic or red to not disrupt their natural sleep pattern.
Feed: You need a chick crumble - either medicated or unmedicated. Do not use a feed intended for adult chickens. We use medicated feed from Kalmbach for our chicks. A well-balanced starter feed is important for growing chicks to develop their immune system. We do not vaccinate for coccidiosis, so we strongly recommend using a medicated feed. Be sure the feeder is kept clean and dry.
Water: Their waterer needs to be kept clean and full of fresh water. You may want to consider adding electrolytes or apple cider vinegar on arrival.
You should have your brooder setup with bedding (do not use newspaper, magazines, or cedar shavings), a heat source (heater plate or heat lamp), thermometer, waterer, feeder, chick feed, and electrolytes or apple cider vinegar.
Pick up: Have a flexible schedule on your shipping week so you can pick your chicks up as soon as the Post Office calls you. Do not use the estimated arrival date/time as a scheduled pick up time. This is not a guaranteed delivery time for live animals! Do not allow chicks to sit at the post office. It is your responsibility to pick them up in a timely manner. Count the chicks in your box and take a photo if you have any losses. It is not necessary to file a report with the Post Office. Notify us of any losses within 72-hours by replying to your confirmation email and don’t forget to include the photos of dead chicks.
Arrival home: Have your brooder set up and the warm zone brought to a steady temperature of 95-99°F the day before your chicks arrive. As soon as you arrive home, dip each chick’s beak into warm (90-95°F) water as you put them into the brooder. This is very important! It will rehydrate them, and it will help warm them up. The chicks will not survive if they do not get water. You may add apple cider vinegar or electrolytes to the water if chicks appear lethargic or stressed. Do not prolong the use of the electrolytes as it may cause dehydration.
After hydration: Your chicks will likely take a long nap while warming up in the heat. Please remember that they have just traveled and are very tired. Allow them to rest and warm up if needed. Do not handle the chicks more than necessary for the first few days. Most chicks will start eating crumble on the own, but you may want to sprinkle some crumble on paper towel to encourage them. You can also feed your chicks egg yolk to give them an extra boost. We recommend boiling the egg first then crumbling the yolk. Do not leave any uneaten egg in the brooder, it will spoil.
We recommend a high-quality medicated chick crumble. Follow the feeding guidelines on the product label. We do not offer a vaccination for coccidiosis, so it is strongly recommended that you start your chicks on a medicated feed.
This was done to help you in identifying the chicks from one another. The band can be removed the day they arrive if you don't plan on keeping them banded. If you want to keep them banded please note that the bands the chicks arrive with will need to be changed in 1 to 2 weeks. The bands will need to be replaced with a medium-sized leg band next or a zip tie. The band will need to be changed several times over the next month or so, increasing the size of the band with each change. Please do not leave the original band on the chick for more than 1 to 2 weeks as this will result in injury to your chick. The band can be removed by simply pinching the band with your index finger and your thumb while holding the chick with your other hand and gently pulling the band off. It really is that simple!
The only breed we always band the same color is the Icelandic. Since the Icelandic hatch in a wide variety of colorations, they are always banded with purple leg bands. We band them immediately after assessing chicks after they hatch, so when they are packed into orders they already have the leg band. That means that even if you only order the Icelandic and no other breeds, your chicks will still be packed with a leg band.
All other breeds will be banded at the packer's discretion. Please check the underside of the lid for a written record of what band colors were used in which breed in your order.
Bird Health
We only offer a vaccination for Marek’s disease.
Marek’s Disease is a very common, highly contagious disease in chickens caused by herpes virus. Infected birds cannot be treated but the disease is controllable with vaccine. Contact your state agency for more information or if you suspect your birds have Marek’s disease.
Coccidiosis is a protozoan parasite that thrives in warm wet living conditions. Coccidia is common in chicken flocks but can cause sickness and death if an overgrowth is not treated. Chickens develop a natural immunity but are most susceptible when living in wet and dirty conditions. Sickness typically occurs in birds that are under 6 months of age. Speak with your veterinarian if you need assistance with treatment options.
Pasty butt is a very common condition for shipped chicks where droppings get stuck and block the chick’s vent. It can occur from stress, temperature changes, and dehydration. This is easily treatable but can cause death if not taken care of. Gently remove the stuck droppings with a warm, wetted paper towel. Use cation to not pull the down from the chick’s bottom. You will need to be patient as it could take some time to clear the vent of all stuck droppings. Pat the area dry with a clean paper towel and apply some vegetable or olive oil to the area with a q-tip to prevent more droppings from sticking. There are numerous instructional photos and videos that can be found online if you need a demonstration. Be sure to address the cause of pasty butt to prevent it from reoccurring.
General Bird Questions
We do not vent sex our chicks. No one at our farm is trained to vent sex. All chicks are sold straight run other than auto-sexing breeds.
No, our birds cannot be feather sexed. Feather sexing is only accurate on the first generation of offspring from a fast feathering male and slow feathering female. Please don’t request that we feather sex the chicks in your order.
Straight run chicks are shipped as hatched so we do not know what the ratio will be. Typically, the ratio is about 50:50 but this is not a guarantee. You can receive any combination of males and females.
We cannot stress enough that we do not vent sex our chicks and do not know the sex of the chicks that are in your order if it is not an auto-sexing breed. Vent sexing requires special training and a lot of skill. No one on our farm is trained to do this. For some breeds we only hatch a small number of chicks each week, meaning the entire hatch for that breed goes to one order. If they turn out to be mostly roosters, understand that it is out of our control. We are not trying to sabotage you; there is absolutely no gain for us in these situations. Do not purchase straight run chicks if you are not prepared for receiving any combination of males and females.
Do not contact us with statistics and claims that the ratio you received is not possible. Unlikely does not mean impossible. We do not guarantee any ratio and will not refund or ship more chicks if you are unhappy with the number of roosters you receive in your order of straight run chicks.
Our farm does not have a veterinarian on site. Please have your birds seen by someone with medical training and certifications that can give your bird a proper examination if you feel there is something medically wrong. If your bird’s life is on the line, do not wait on our response before taking action. There is not always someone in office and there is nothing we can do to save your birds.
